本帖最后由 闲云野鹤 于 2018-4-8 21:19 编辑
新买了颗树兰,半价的,12.5加币:
About Epidendrum Orchid Plants: Information On Epidendrum Orchid Care
By Bonnie L. Grant, Certified Urban Agriculturist
Epidendrum orchid plants are among the most common and the most unusual forms of the flowers. This group of orchids encompasses over 1,000 varieties of sub-tropical to tropical plants. That means most of them are not suited for long-term outdoor growing. Instead, they thrive in a greenhouse [1] or even the home interior.
Epidendrum orchid care [2] is a labor of love and provides a unique hobby for the orchid enthusiast. The following is an overview of how to care for Epidendrums.
About Epidendrum Orchid
Most orchid care is the same, but just in case you don’t have a clue which variety of orchid you have, here are some details on the Epidendrums.
The majority of these plants are epiphytic [3] and live suspended from a tree or cliff with minimal soil. A few are terrestrial but they also thrive on low nutrient media. The forms of Epidendrums vary widely. Some produce pseudo bulbs while others have cane-like stems.
The color and shape of the flower petals depends upon the cultivar, but most of the group has a characteristic three-lobed lip at the bottom of the flower that closes in on the center.
Growing Epidendrum Orchids
Epidendrum orchids are persistent and often bloom several times over the season. The plants are used to low nutrient sites and can live on just bark or grow in pots with orchid medium. The plants are amazingly adapted to a variety of conditions.
Warm interior conditions are the plant’s preferred state, but they will tolerate temperatures down to 50 F. (10 C.). A few collectors do not care much about Epidendrum orchids, feeling the flower is not spectacular in comparison to other species. They are tough little plants, however, and the scent from the blooms perfumes the home or greenhouse.
Propagation is through tissue culture and is difficult to do at home. Conditions must be perfect and sterile in order to achieve a replica of the parent plant. Most novices who try growing Epidendrum orchids themselves get a hybrid mix instead of a true copy. Fortunately, the Epidendrum orchid plants are readily available.
How to Care for Epidendrums
Epidendrum orchid care is minimal. They are tough plants used to inhospitable conditions. Epidendrums cannot survive freezing conditions but do well in almost any temperature above 50 F. (10 C.).
While they prefer indirect bright light, they perform nicely in brighter to dimmer conditions. Cut off the spent flower stems and you will find the plant blooming again in about two months.
Fertilize with orchid food every two weeks and water about once per week. Keep the plant moist but the surface of the bark media should not be soggy.
Orchids like to be pot bound, so re-potting is not terribly important. Do it once every three years or so in order to refresh the potting medium. Use an orchid mix and a pot just big enough to fit the coiled roots into.
Several species can grow outdoors in Florida but the majority of gardeners will need to situate them indoors. Once you find a space they love, don’t move the plant. They seem to be very sedentary and proprietary once they have their chosen space. Moving the plant can cause a sudden decline in its health.
栽植环境: 树兰是一种广泛分布于中南美洲的洋兰。冬季的最低温度要求在摄氏十度左右。夜间如果只有几小时低于摄氏十度是没有大碍的,但如果过于寒冷,叶子就会凋落,植株逐渐衰弱。树兰受寒后,虽然植株看起来还有生气,但叶子会从下面开始凋落,植株会变红,出现受寒的症状,此时就要把树兰移到温暖的地方。 如果树兰的叶子在冬季变红,可能是温度太低导致;如果在春季到秋季变红,就是其他原因了。 树兰是一种很喜欢日照的洋兰。在盛夏日照最强的时候,可采取百分之三十的遮光;如果没有适当遮光,叶子也会变红。 适量的肥料,充分的日照与延长日照时间,是开出漂亮的花球必不可少的条件。
栽植介质: 水苔和树皮都可作为种植树兰的介质。所不同的是,树皮容易使植株摇晃,不太容易栽植,有时候也会导致生长缓慢。 建议用水苔+素烧花盆来种植树兰,如果只有一条花茎时,尽量用小花盆。 浇水: 野生的树兰是生于有些干的草丛中,是一种较耐干燥的洋兰。如果浇水过量,栽植介质一直潮湿,基部就会腐烂。但是,从茎上伸出的根可以很好的吸收水分,植株是不会马上衰弱的,只是植株会出现倒伏。 理想的浇水方式是,一次充分的胶水后,要等栽植介质完全干了才能再浇水。冬季气温低的时候,可以一至两周浇一次水。 要特别注意的是,浇水的时候,基部和整个植株都要充分湿透。
施肥: 从四月下旬到九月底,要每十天施放一次稀释的液肥,相较于其他的洋兰,淑兰施肥的两药稍微少一些。 过量施肥也会影响叶子的颜色。常年持续施肥过多,就叶子往往会变红。这是因为植株畜积过多的肥料,造成生理障害的现象。 所以,施肥时千万不要过量。 换盆: 树兰都是在春季进行换盆的。树兰是很强壮的花,即使在花期换盆也不会受影响。树兰换盆时很容易长的很凌乱,很难栽植成大植株,如果把握这一特性,进行合植也会很适合。 如果从小苗开始栽植,到让它开出美丽的花,最好是买数珠到十株左右的树兰,并进行合植。 近年来树兰的花色日渐丰富,用同色的苗来合植或是用多种颜色的苗来混植也很有意思。能以这种方式欣赏的洋兰并不多,不妨创造属于自己喜爱的组合盆栽来吧。
繁殖: 树兰不仅会从茎上长出白色的根,还会像石斛兰一样长出高芽,再从高芽长出根。如果是高芽,就和石斛兰一样,可以将它换盆成小的植株。在根开始伸长的时候,用手指掐下或用剪刀剪下来换盆。 除高芽外,从茎上长出了根,在根的下部把茎剪下,换盆到别的花盆内。用与树木一样的压枝法和扦插法来繁殖,被剪掉上部的旧植株还能长出新的芽来。 只要植株长到一定程度,就可以用这种方法来繁殖新的植株。
病虫害: 入春后,天气变暖,蚜虫就会附生在花上。如果发现少量蚜虫,就要开始向植株喷洒适用的杀虫药;如果在一根花茎发现芽虫,附近的花茎上肯定也有寄生,这时候就要对植株进行方位的喷洒药剂。如果置之不理,蚜虫就会大量滋生,到时候就很难处理,所以要立刻采取措施。 如果不想喷洒药剂,也可以把具有渗透性的颗粒状杀虫剂洒在植株基部,只是药效比较慢。 株型修剪: 树兰原本就是欣赏他粗野散满的花姿,长年栽植下来,花茎会漫无方向的生长。经过改良的品种,花茎相对直立,不过还是会倒下。如果合植的植株较多,可以把三、四根稍粗的支架,间隔均匀地插在花盆边上,用绳子把植株的中间部分和上方部分绑在支架上,以防止倒伏。 如果想植株直立生长,就更需要让它接受更强的日照。在冬季把树兰放在窗边,茎就会朝着能照射的阳光的一方生长,所以,建议不定时旋转植株。 树兰一旦开花,就会连续开几个月。这是树兰的特性,如果不在意花茎弯曲,就让花开到凋谢吧。 开过的花茎不要剪掉,这样,来年还会在老茎上长出新花茎,开花。 或者,你可以把开的很漂亮的花,连同花茎下方带叶子的部分一并剪下,作为插花欣赏。
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