OBD test "not ready"

闲云野鹤

So, your vehicle is “not ready” for an OBD Test. What now?
Why your vehicle may not be “ready”:
Your vehicle’s On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) computer reviews the status of the
emission systems within the vehicle. During certain repair procedures, the status
of these emission systems is reset by the repair technician. The status of the
emission systems may also be reset by disconnecting the battery. After being
reset, the emission systems on your vehicle will have a “not ready” status.
Why your vehicle could not be tested:
Vehicles from model years 1996 through and including 2000 cannot be tested if
presented for a test with more than two (2) emission systems reporting “not
ready”. Vehicles from model years 2001 and newer cannot be tested if presented
for a test with more than one (1) emission systems reporting “not ready”.
What is a Monitor?
A Monitor is a test run by the vehicles computer on components and subsystems
to see if they are working properly.
How the status of your vehicle’s emission systems becomes “ready” again:
Driving the vehicle in a normal fashion may allow your vehicle’s to become
“ready”. However, for certain emission systems and certain vehicles, the status
returns to “ready” only after driving the vehicle a specific way. This specific “drive
cycle” is determined by the manufacturer. Speak to your repair technician
regarding this drive cycle and what you or your repair technician should do to
prepare for your retest.
If you perform your own repairs and do not have a scan tool, you should drive the
vehicle in a “normal” fashion for up to a week. This “normal” driving should
include both “stop-and-go” driving as well as cruising speed driving. You are
entitled to one free test within 60 days of every paid test, until your vehicle
passes the inspection.
I have driven the “drive cycle” repeatedly and my system still won’t set to
“ready”: Your vehicle may have an existing problem which prevents the system
from resetting. Several problems can cause this to happen, for example: If the
vehicle is not running at the correct operating temperature, either to cold or to
hot (incorrect or bad thermostat, cooling fans on all the time or not working at all,
other cooling system problems) the system will not run. Electrical problems, if
the computer is losing power when the ignition is turned off (blown fuse, wiring
problem, or has an internal computer problem) the computers memory is erased
and system will be “not ready”.

https://dmv.ny.gov/brochure/what-do-you-mean-my-cars-not-ready

What Do You Mean My Car's Not Ready?
A Consumer Guide to Readiness Monitor Failures as Part of the New York State Vehicle Inspection Program

What is a Readiness Monitor?
Vehicles equipped with On Board Diagnostic II (OBDII), which includes most 1996 or newer gasoline-powered vehicles and most 1997 or newer diesel-powered vehicles that have a gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR) less than 8,501 pounds, self-test their emission systems utilizing various monitors. Vehicles perform up to 11 system tests, depending on year, make and model of the vehicle. These tests are commonly referred to as "readiness monitors." The readiness monitors identify whether the vehicle's computer has completed the required "tests" while the vehicle is being driven.

If a test has been completed, the system status will be reported "ready." An uncompleted test will be reported "not ready." An OBDII vehicle will not pass the annual inspection unless the required monitors are "ready." The Vehicle Inspection Report from the test equipment will identify monitors that are not ready.

The test equipment reads the OBDII and readiness monitor status as part of the vehicle's emissions inspection. The vehicle inspector cannot change the information reported by the vehicle.


How Many Monitors Have to be Ready?
The US Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) guidelines allow up to two monitors to be in a "not ready" state for model year 1996 through 2000 vehicles and one monitor "not ready" for 2001 or newer model year vehicles.


What Causes a "Not-Ready" Report?
Causes of a "not ready" report:

Recent vehicle repairs in which diagnostic trouble codes have been cleared with a OBDII scan tool; or,
if the battery had been recently disconnected or replaced; or,
if the vehicle's computer requires a software update; or,
a pending problem has not yet illuminated the "check engine" light.

What Do I Do Now?
To allow your vehicle's monitors to perform their tests and reset them to a "ready" state, your vehicle will have to be driven in a special way called a "drive cycle." Running through the drive cycle sets the readiness monitors so they can detect any emissions failures. Your vehicle's specific drive cycle can depend on the vehicle make and model, and which monitor needs to be reset. In most cases, two drive cycles are required, separated by a cool down period.


What Are My Options?
If the only reason your vehicle failed the inspection was due to readiness monitors not being in a "ready" state, and your current inspection has already expired, the inspection software will issue a 10-day extension that will allow you to legally operate your vehicle on the highways. During those ten days, you can either:

Drive the vehicle as directed by your owner’s manual (look under OBD); use the generic drive cycle on the back of this brochure; or consult with a qualified auto technician who can tell you how to complete a vehicle or monitor specific drive cycle. Be sure to return to the inspection station within ten days to get the vehicle re-inspected.
Negotiate with the inspection station to have a technician perform the drive cycles according to manufacturer specific guidelines for a fee you will pay.
If you take the vehicle from the inspection facility to perform the drive cycle yourself, the inspection station operator can charge you an emission re-inspection fee, up to the maximum fee allowed for an original emission inspection.


How Do I Avoid This in the Future?
Tips to consider:

If your check engine light comes on, do not wait until your annual inspection to get your vehicle repaired. Not only will it help clean the air, but it could save you a lot of time, as well as future repair and fuel costs.
Refer to your owner's manual to see if your car has a readiness monitor check. Some newer model vehicles have this function programmed in, which enables you to check your vehicle's monitors before an inspection.
Inspect your vehicle early! Do not wait until the end of the month to get your annual inspection.

Generic Drive Cycle
The purpose of the OBDII drive cycle is to run your vehicle's onboard diagnostics. This, in turn, allows monitors to operate and detect potential malfunctions of your vehicle's emission system. The correct drive cycle for your vehicle can vary greatly, depending on the vehicle model and the monitors that need to be reset. When a specific drive cycle is not known, or drive cycle information is not available from an owner's manual, the generic cycle described below may assist with resetting your vehicle's monitors. However, this generic cycle may not work for all vehicles.

IMPORTANT: If you choose to use the generic drive cycle below, you must obey all traffic laws and drive in a safe manner. Also, be sure the required preconditions are met prior to performing the drive cycle.

The OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of each other).
The ignition key must not be left on prior to the cold start – otherwise the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run.

As soon as the engine starts, idle the engine in drive for two and one-half minutes, with the air conditioning (A/C) and rear defrost turned on, if equipped.
Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph under moderate, constant acceleration. Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking (or depressing the clutch for manual transmissions).
Accelerate again back to 55 to 60 mph.
Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes. Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.
For additional information, see Inspection Requirements
https://www.smogtips.com/smog-question/2096/Honda-Odyssey-Drive-Cycle

Honda Odyssey Drive CycleHello, I can't get my Honda Odysses to pass the smog check. The readiness flags (emission monitors) are not complete. I've driven my Honda for a few days now and it still won't cycle through to get it to pass the smog. The emissions are ok, it just doesn't complete the drive cycle enough times. There are no emission failures and nothing indicating a failed smog part.

Answer:

You will need to drive your Honda Odyssey for at least 200-300 miles through various driving conditions in order to complete the required Emission Monitors. Your Honda’s emission monitors are internal self-tests which the Engine Control Unit performs to ensure your Odyssey is not polluting and is running efficiently. The entire process of self-testing various emission control systems is called a Drive Cycle. HOW TO PERFORM A HONDA ODYSSEY DRIVE CYCLE The following is a Honda OBDII Drive Cycle Pattern. (Obey all traffic laws while performing drive cycles. Perform acceleration steps only on highways) COLD START: Begin from Cold Start, and ignition in OFF position for at least 1 hour. Insure your Honda’s fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full and engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F and within 11°F of the ambient air temperature. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run. IDLE TIME: Run your Honda’s engine (do not drive) for 2 1/2 minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. During this period the ECU will be running the Oxygen Sensor Heater self-test, Air Injection System Passive Air test, EVAP Purge "No Flow" test, Misfire Detection. ACCELERATE: Turn off the air conditioner and rear defroster and begin driving. As soon as possible apply half throttle until 55mph is reached. The ECU will now run self-tests on the Misfire Detection, Fuel Trim, and EVAP Purge Flow. HOLD STEADY: Now hold your vehicle speed steady at 55mph for three minutes. During this time the Oxygen Sensor O2 response, Air Intrusive (AIS System), EGR Flow, Purge Valve, Misfire Detection, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed. DECELERATE: During this step you want to slowly let off the accelerator pedal. Do not brake or shift your Honda in order to slow down. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph. The ECU will once again self-test the EGR System, EVAP Purge System and Long Term Fuel Trims. ACCELERATE: Go ahead and accelerate again at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph is reached. This will perform the same self tests as during the first acceleration step. HOLD STEADY: Hold steady speed once again. This time at 55mph for five minutes. During this time, in addition to running the self-tests as during the first HOLD STEADY step, the ECU will perform the catalyst monitor diagnostics. If the catalyst (Catalytic Converter) is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst,or in order to Complete the CAT Monitor. DECELERATE: This will perform the same diagnostics as in the first Deceleration. Remember not to press your Honda’s brake or shift gears during deceleration. This should complete the drive cycle on your Honda Odyssey. To ensure all monitors are complete use a scan tool to view the monitors. You may want to complete the drive cycle 2-3 times. OBD II Readiness Monitors Monitor Status Helping set Monitors First, make sure that the check engine light is not commanded on. Having stored DTC faults or even pending diagnostic trouble codes active may prevent a monitor from running to completion. Second, make sure that you have enough fuel in the car. Some monitors, for instance the EVAP monitor, may require the fuel level to be between 35% and 85% to enable the monitor to execute. Third, complete the drive cycle. EVAP Drive Cycles The following are sample drive cycles for the EVAP monitor: Ford: With fuel tank one half to three-quarters full, cruise at 45 to 65 mph for 10 minutes. Avoid sharp turns and hills during this period. Chrysler: There are two-parts to this test. The first part runs after idling for five minutes, then driving at 30 to 45 mph for two minutes (fuel tank must be half to 85 percent full). The second part runs after the vehicle has sit for 8 or more hours (cold soak) without being driven. Start the engine and idle for four minutes, then drive in stop-and-go traffic for five minutes using smooth accelerations and decelerations. Stop and idle for 4 minutes. The EVAP monitor should be complete. An example of some common enabling criteria to run the EVAP monitors drive cycle: The malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) must be off Barometric pressure exceeds 75 Kpa At start-up, IAT and ECT is between 45°F and 85°F IAT is not more than 2°F greater than ECT ECT is not more than 12°F greater than IAT Fuel tank level is between 26 percent and 74 percent The TPS is between 9 percent and 35 percent The EVAP solenoid is at 50 percent pulse width PWM, within 65 seconds of engine run time Oxygen Sensor Drive Cycles The following are some sample drive cycle requirements for the oxygen sensor monitor to run: Ford: The monitor should run when the engine has reached normal operating temperature, the inlet air temperature is between 40 and 100 degrees F, and the vehicle is cruising at a steady 40 mph for four minutes. GM: GM uses a two-part oxygen sensor monitor. The first part of the monitor runs after idling the engine for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on. This checks the sensor heater circuit. After this, turn the A/C and defroster off, then accelerate at half throttle to 55 mph and hold at a steady 55 mph for three minutes. This will complete the second half of the monitor that checks the responsiveness of the O2 sensors. Chrysler: Idle for five minutes (to reach closed loop operation). Then drive at a steady vehicle speed above 25 mph for two minutes. Stop and idle for 30 seconds. Then smoothly accelerate to 30 to 40 mph. Repeat the last two steps five times. Toyota: The oxygen sensor monitor should run after idling the engine for nine minutes, then driving at a steady 25 mph for two minutes. Catalytic Converter Drive Cycles The catalytic converter monitor may require specific driving conditions before it will run. Depending on the vehicle application, this usually includes completing the oxygen sensor monitors first, followed by driving at highway speeds (60 to 65 mph) for at least 10 to 15 minutes under light load, no conflicts with other monitors that have not yet run (such as EVAP or EGR monitors which may have to complete before the catalyst monitor will run), and no fault codes that could affect the accuracy of the test. Some vehicles have very specific drive cycles that must be followed before the catalyst monitor will run. In some cases, it may even be necessary to complete the prescribed drive cycle several times before the catalyst monitor will run. The following are some sample drive cycles for the catalyst monitor to run. Ford: The catalytic converter monitor will not run until the oxygen sensor monitor has run and completed successfully with no faults found. The vehicle must then be driven in stop-and-go traffic conditions at five different cruise speeds ranging from 25 to 45 mph over a period of 10 minutes. GM: The catalytic converter monitor runs after cruising at 55 mph for 5 minutes, but it may take up to five drive cycles at this speed before the monitor will run. Chrysler: The catalytic converter monitor will not run unless the Check Engine light is off, no pending codes are present, the fuel level is between 15 and 85 percent full, and the coolant temperature is above 70 degrees F. If these conditions have been met, the engine must have run at least 90 seconds, and the engine speed must be between 1,350 and 1,900 rpm. Idle vehicle for five minutes (to reach closed loop operation), then drive at a steady speed between 30 and 45 mph for two minutes. Toyota: The catalytic converter monitor will run after driving the vehicle at 40 to 55 mph for seven minutes, followed by driving at 35 to 45 mph for another seven minutes. An example of some common enabling criteria to run the catalytic converter monitors drive cycle: Minimum 330 seconds since start-up at 70°F Engine coolant temperature is between 170°F - 230°F Intake air temperature is between 20°F - 180°F Time since entering closed-loop is 30 seconds Inferred rear HO2S sensor temperature of 900°F EGR is between 1% and 12% Part throttle, maximum rate of change is 0.2 volts/0.050 sec Vehicle speed is between 5 and 70 mph Fuel level is greater than 15% Engine RPM 1,000 to 1,600 RPM Engine load 15 to 35% Inferred catalyst temperature 850°F - 1,200°F Number of front HO2S switches is 50 An example of some common enabling criteria to run the catalytic converter monitors drive cycle: RPM range greater than idle Air mass range greater than 5.67 g/sec Purge duty cycle of 0%    Typical Fuel Monitor Malfunction Thresholds: Lean Malfunction: LONGFT greater than 25%, SHRTFT greater than 5% Rich Malfunction: LONGFT less than 25%, SHRTFT less than 10% HOW TO PERFORM A HONDA ODYSSEY DRIVE CYCLE The following is a Honda OBDII Drive Cycle Pattern. (Obey all traffic laws while performing drive cycles. Perform acceleration steps only on highways). COLD START: Begin from Cold Start, and ignition key in OFF position for at least 1 hour. Ensure your Honda’s fuel tank is between 1/4 and 3/4 full and engine coolant temperature must be below 122°F and within 11°F of the ambient air temperature. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run. IDLE TIME: Run your Honda’s engine (do not drive) for 2 1/2 minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. During this period the ECU will be running the Oxygen Sensor Heater self-test, Air Injection System Passive Air test, EVAP Purge "No Flow" test, Misfire Detection. ACCELERATE: Turn off the air conditioner and rear defroster and begin driving. As soon as possible apply half throttle until 55mph is reached. The ECU will now run self-tests on the Misfire Detection, Fuel Trim, and EVAP Purge Flow. HOLD STEADY: Now hold your vehicle speed steady at 55mph for three minutes. During this time the Oxygen Sensor O2 response, Air Intrusive (AIS System), EGR Flow, Purge Valve, Misfire Detection, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed. DECELERATE: During this step you want to slowly let off the accelerator pedal. Do not brake or shift your Honda in order to slow down. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 20 mph. The ECU will once again self-test the EGR System, EVAP Purge System and Long Term Fuel Trims. ACCELERATE: Go ahead and accelerate again at 3/4 throttle until 55-60mph is reached. This will perform the same self tests as during the first acceleration step HOLD STEADY: Hold steady speed once again. This time at 55mph for five minutes. During this time, in addition to running the self-tests as during the first HOLD STEADY step, the ECU will perform the catalyst monitor diagnostics. If the catalyst (Catalytic Converter) is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst, or in order to Complete the CAT Monitor. DECELERATE: This will perform the same diagnostics as in the first Deceleration. Remember not to press your Honda’s brake or shift gears during deceleration. This should complete the drive cycle on your Honda Odyssey. To insure all monitors are complete use a scan tool to view the monitors. You may want to complete the drive cycle 2-3 times.